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Oh you didn't...not on the FACE!

May. 9th, 2006 | 06:21 pm

Bugger me. Doesn't time fly?

It's May already (in case you weren't aware of that - and believe me, I only JUST found out). The days are getting longer, the heady scent of approaching Summer is in the air, grassy knolls everywhere are swarming with young people playing frisbee and drinking beer straight from the can...

This, at least, is what I imagine might be happening in some far-flung, foreign land.

Here the days don't get longer (although I still have my reservations about Mondays), there is no Summer and grassy knolls are scarce, to put it mildly. There are, in fact, only 2 seasons - hot and wet (November to April) and slightly-less-hot and foggy (the rest of the year). This year the "wet" season has been a total washout. That is to say, it hasn't. Since I got here it has rained (drizzled, technically speaking) for about 17 minutes one Wednesday a couple of weeks ago.

Having spent the first few weeks of my stay in a continual sweaty funk, I have now adapted almost completely to the pervasive humidity. Certain behavioural patterns have helped - 3pm to 6pm has become "Pants time". During said period I can be found, suitably attired, gently perspiring in my hammock (not, I repeat, NOT sweating) while pondering weighty questions such as "How would I know if I had contracted Dengue fever?" and "What the shitting christ IS Dengue fever?".

Indeed, after a memorable camping trip last weekend strange tropical ailments have taken a prominent place in my thoughts. I was persuaded to join an overnight expedition to a beach on the other side of the island. My initial impressions of the proposition were not all favourable, based as they were on accounts of plagues of insects of biblical proportions and, as if this alone wasn't discouraging enough, poisonous trees (?!?!). Still, as usual I allowed myself to be swayed by popular opinion and hastily packed my knapsack for the trip.

As luck would have it, I had the presence of forethought to get quite generously sunburned on my face and chest during my trip to "Tortoise Bay" on Saturday morning. You may well imagine how this buoyed my spirits as our taxi bumped along the interminable dirt road to our destination. Listening to "The Bare Necessities" sung in French did little to boost my morale (the language of love? Maybe, but a strange and wrong kind of it). For those of you who were left wondering at the sudden disappearance of Gallic warbling from the British music scene post "Joe le Taxi", you can rest assured that its abrupt demise was nothing to be mourned (I, for one, "ne regrette rien").

Upon disembarking from the taxi I was greeted by several large wooden signs bearing the disconcerting message "Danger - trees". Being the plucky fellow I am I made some light-hearted quip about my indifference to the threat posed by foliage in general, and that should a perky sapling fancy its chances it had better think twice etc. I was then curtly informed that I should, in effect, shut up. The sap from these trees caused ugly welts on contact with the skin, and even death, if ingested. Just as well we'd be giving them a wide berth I thought.

After pitching our tents under some distinctly venomous-looking fronds, the night's festivities began in earnest. Sundown allowed me the brief respite of being able to remove my hat (which I had kept on all day to avoid the inevitable sympathetic comments which people feel obliged to make when faced with someone who looks like they have been throttled, had their head slapped for an hour and then shined to a high gloss finish). My relief was short-lived, however, as a high-pitched whining announced the enemy's arrival.

They came from nowhere. They came in their millions. A dense cloud formed itself around my beleaguered crown and began its systematic series of guerrilla attacks. I soon found that no hat, no repellent spray, no long-sleeved garment was a match for their collective might. I had entered mosquito hell.

A golden sun rises slowly, revealing a scene of utter devastation. Disfigured limbs and skin incandescent with a plethora of weeping sores come together, gradually forming an almost human shape. A hollow groan emanates from this grotesque beast, a single sound conveying the suffering of a thousand unearthly torments more clearly than words ever could. It rises, stumbling to its feet. Seeking desperately for anything to ameliorate its pain it picks up a discarded bottle of sun lotion from the sand. With slow, deliberate movements the beast applies the dense emulsion to the livid parchment that serves for its skin, cream mixing with the fine sand to create an agonising exfoliant effect. It slumps back down to the ground, an empty husk of a man, forsaken by God to languish in the infernal wastes of the fallen.

74 bites...

on...

one...

knee.

(Does that give you some idea?)


Next week - "The Shits"!

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Moving house

Mar. 7th, 2006 | 10:48 am

I have moved house. Well, house, job, country, and continent to be more exact (I would like to stress that I am still "continent" though).

I am no longer to be found eating jamon and sleeping in Northern Spain. As of this friday I shall instead be turtle-molesting and getting hideously sunburnt on Isla Santa Cruz in the Galapagos Islands. As a result I will transform this journal (or maybe a different one, I haven´t decided) from a big pile of jizz into a big pile of jizz with pictures of giant tortoises.

I hope this brings joy to all (both) my readers.

I start all my sentences with "I". Is this a sign of latent egomania?

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Let me hear you say "REWIND" again!

Nov. 14th, 2005 | 02:54 am

                                                                                                                                                             

Carefully navigating our way around the deepening puddles, we made our way to a window on the far side of the house, the heavy wooden shutter slightly ajar. My companions, clearly well-versed in local customs, filed in through the muddy portal with me close behind. Stepping carefully down from the windowsill, I found myself in a large room, mostly empty save for a trestle table laden with half-empty bottles, an assortment of speakers, and some beaten-up armchairs. The 'happening' as obviously in its early stages, as there was a mere handful of people, plastic cups in hand, to be seen. After a brief period of repose, I made a beeline for the refreshments. Not having had anything to drink (apart from a nervously sipped can during the ascent), I was meticulous in my inspection of the various beverages on offer. Finally, I settled for what I presumed to be a whisky and coke. 'Let the festivities commence' I thought, as the potent mixture made its presence felt in my stomach.
On further exploration, there turned out to be two main rooms: the first (intended as a 'chill-out' area I imagined), and a larger area next door, resplendent with an industrial heater, floor-to-ceiling speakers, and a DJ booth. The master of ceremonies was himself situated behind what used to be the hotel bar, his 'wheels of steel' lit by a precariously arranged lightbulb (which, due to its position directly in front of his eyes, seemed to be rather more of a hindrance than anything else). The music was pumping - drum and bass (or at least my idea of what drum and bass might be), and there were the usual bunch of misfits gyrating in front (you know, the ones that can 'dance' without having touched a drop, though invariably appearing like they may well have partaken of something decidedly stronger than mere alcohol, or been dropped on their heads as babies, or possibly both). Despite their unprepossessing image, the energy they were emitting was infectious, and soon enough I found myself nodding along to the thumping bass. Within the hour I had progressed to lifting my feet fully off the floor, paired with slow 'kung-fu' style hand movements. I was indeed starting to 'feel it'.
A few shouted half-conversations later, I was overcome by the call of nature, and went in search of a suitable place to answer it. I was informed that the only way in and out was the window, so I duly advanced on its direction. Since we came in there had clearly been a lot of traffic passing through - the floor around the base of the window was covered in muddy footprints. It was great care therefore that I climbed out onto the ledge. The drop down was somewhat higher than I remembered, so, discretion being the better part of valour, I shuffled gracefully along on my arse until I was confident enough to launch myself into the abyss. Landing in a pothole, I staggered to regain my balance. Luckily it was still fairly early on in the evening, so I was still in more or less full command of my faculties. I righted myself and strolled off to find a quiet spot. I had progressed only a few metres when a sudden feeling of primeval dread washed over me. Instinctively, I slowly raised my hands to my face, and, ever so cautiously...sniffed. 
The odour which assailed the delicate membranes of my nose was horribly unmistakeable. It was the stench of all that is foul and pestilent, the smell of childhood days playing football in the local park, it was...dogshit. My previously high spirits plummeted, and I sank into a deep despair. Now, I am no stranger to roughing it, no cotton-wool wrapped prissy fop who faints at the thought of spending a week without showering; but this was something altogether more distressing. I can't fully describe the impotent rage which subsumed me in those dark moments. An hour from home, miles from the nearest tap, hopelessly befouled with canine faeces. I was in hell.
Mustering what was left of my stiff upper lip, I began to gingerly investigate my predicament. Closer inspection confirmed my worst fears - not only had the unspeakable evil left its mark on my hands, but also on the seat of my favourite cords. I racked my brains as to the best course of action. Option one - go back inside, explain my unfortunate situation, and beg to be taken home. This was clearly not viable. As part of a group I could not expect a full retreat purely because some collateral damage had been sustained on my part. Option two...f**k! What is option two? Then, the lightbulb above my bald head flashed on: nature had got me into this (dog's) mess, and, damn it, nature would get me out of it. Scuttling across the car park, I began to search the surrounding area. Like a vision of holy beauty, the dark expanse spread out before me. The mother of all puddles. Taking care not to overbalance, I thrust my hands into the icy depths. Like someone with an obsessive-compulsive disorder I scrubbed frantically, first my heads, then the arse of my trousers. I was reminded of those stories where babies get trapped under cars, and their mothers suddenly become bestowed with incredible strength, lifting the vehicle clean off the ground to rescue their imperiled progeny. I now needed to show this kind of super-human fortitude. Cometh the hour, cometh the man. Several minutes later I rose tall, took a deep breath (though not too near my hands), and headed once more into the fray.
To my great surprise (and with the help of several stiff drinks), I was soon able to all but forget about the sorry episode. I danced, I spoke, I played bongos (my apologies to the owners of these instruments), I had a good time.
All too soon it was time to head home, the night having been such a memorable one that I was (on several separate occasions) moved to song during the journey. It was with a proud stride that I made my way home through the rain-soaked streets that night. I had looked the devil in the eye, cast my dice and won. Soap and water never tasted so good (in a metaphorical sense of course).  

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caution: previously unreleased prose

Nov. 8th, 2005 | 02:56 am

My creativity, boundless as it is by nature, has forced me to publish some of my previously unreleased prose.

We cannot be lovers (provisionally titled)

 

We cannot be lovers you and I,

as I am of the Earth and you the Sea.

You swell and shift, your embrace elusive.

I reach out to you, and am broken up,

 in another display of your capricious power.

 

As swiftly came rejection, you offer a tender caress.

I tremble to your ancient song,

and am no longer cold.

 

Intoxicated by the whispered promises of your liberty,

I am unchained.

Until by new light your implacable gaze gently forces me back,

to my place of longing.

 

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Let me hear you say...REWIND!

Oct. 25th, 2005 | 02:40 am

I was relaxing at home last saturday evening (you know the type of thing: a well-stocked cheeseboard, an couple of ounces of quince and a full-bodied red), anticipating a quiet night of sedentary gastronomic excess to recover from last night's festivities, when I receive a message informing me of much the same type of activities being in progress at a friend's flat and would I like to join them. Well, not wanting to seem like the anti-social type, I duly quaffed my claret, picked up my coat (see "My magic new coat" for details), and headed out into the cool, lamp-lit Catalan night.
It had been a while since I had seen these particular friends, so, ever the dandy I vested myself in some of my favourite attire of the moment: that is to say, I put on the same t-shirt and cords that I've been wearing solidly since I bought them 3 months ago. To top off this extravagant outfit, I solemnly took down my fine new coat (see "For f**ks sake, I'm not going to click on this just to find out about a new coat you've bought" for details) and, stopping momentarily to admire my reflection in the french windows of my kitchen, set off into the warm, shadow-filled Spanish evening.
I was singing a little ditty to myself as I wended my way through the narrow passageways of the old part of town, at ease with the world and looking forward to nothing more than some good conversation (or at least someone to direct it at), and perhaps a hand of cards or two. Imagine my surprise when, having barely crossed the threshold, I'm informed that we (the assembled quartet) are not to be partaking of the refined pleasures I had envisioned, but that rather we are going to...a rave!
Now, having recovered from the initial shock of this unforeseen proclamation, I cast my mind back to the first (and only) rave I had ever had the misfortune to attend. It took place in a field somewhere outside Cambridge, approximately two and a half years ago. I had been lured to this location with promises of xanadu-like decadence, exhibitionism and general debauchery of the most torrid variety. Gripped by the conviction with which I was relayed all this, I took little persuading in getting into a "Panther" cab and weighing anchor out into the hot, shrouded Cambridge twilight. Now, a lesser man might have been disheartened to discover, some thirty minutes (and £15) later, that the location of this bacchanalian orgy was, shall we say, not quite as straight-forward to find as some of the party had previously believed. Strangely enough, none of the revelers which we encountered on our search (when all pretence as to knowing the way had been given up, and we had had to resort to the ignominy of stopping to ask every passer-by) seemed to have the faintest idea what we were talking about. Eventually, we seemed to be on the right track; our tenuous trail of clues leading to a small, damp field about 5 miles outside the city. Taking a leap of faith, we abandoned the relative comfort of the taxi to make our way into the searingly hot, pitch-black South-Eastern witching hour. Several minutes, and a few bramble / nettle-related altercations later we emerged, triumphant, ready to rave like several young adults had never raved before. At first, my companion's remark of, "There aren't many people here - it must just be getting started" sounded so full of hope. This was a hope which was swiftly bludgeoned to death by the rounders bat of cruel reality. What we had found was, in actual fact, 23 people between the ages of 14 and 17 who had somehow got hold of a generator, a microphone, and the record collection of a mentally-handicapped infant. I was later informed that the incoherent shrieks emanating from the speakers were, in fact somebody's attempts at "Freestyling", and not the aforementioned 'special' child's attempts to regain their stolen vinyl. Bearing in mind that the highpoint of the evening was the 5 mile walk back (in persistent drizzle) to Cambridge, I feel it would be fair to say that the whole experience was indeed, 'Unforgettable', for all the wrong reasons.
Despite then, the warning bells sounding in my head, I was determined to make the best of what the evening had to offer. So, once again I set out into the frankly by now inconceivably brutal heat of the impenetrable inky-blackness of the autonomous region of North-Western Spain now so late that it was technically the next morning.
After what seemed like hours of torturous progress through the rain, we began to climb up, well, right up the side of a sh***ing mountain. The howls of protest from the peugeot's engine became mixed with my own, as we flirted with certain death, weaving up the thin track, precipitous drops on either side. It was with great relief that I kissed the ground (a la His Holiness Adolf Von Nazi-c**t) on leaving the car alive. Upon raising my head from the floor, I caught sight of a grand, somewhat dilapidated hotel. Some of the downstairs rooms seemed to be emitting flashing lights, and loud music (of a type that one's father might describe as "A mindless racket"). This rave was already proving to be quite different from my previous one...(to be continued)

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On the correct time to drink tea.

Oct. 23rd, 2005 | 09:40 pm

 

I've not long finished reading a rather enjoyable book: 'How to be Idle' by Tom Hodgkinson.

Here's a bit that I've stolen from it...

 

According to the Chinese, there are various ideal conditions for the enjoyment of tea:

 

When one's heart and hands are idle.

Tired after reading poetry.

When one's thoughts are disturbed.

Listening to songs and ditties.                                                      

When a song is completed.

Shut up at one's home on a holiday.

Playing the ch'in and looking over paintings.

Engaged in conversation deep at night.

Before a bright window and a clean desk.

With charming friends and slender concubines.

Returning from a visit with friends.

When the day is clear and the breeze is mild.

On a day of light showers.

In a painted boat near a small wooden bridge.

In a forest with tall bamboos.

In a pavilion overlooking lotus flowers on a summer day.

Having lit incense in a small studio.

After a feast is over and the guests are gone.

When the children are at school.

In a quiet, secluded temple.

Near famous springs and quaint rocks.

 

So, next time you feel like a nice cup of rosie - be mindful of this advice. It will taste all the better if you know you chosen just the right moment (my favourite is the boat one).

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The Sausage Fair's Coming!...

Oct. 20th, 2005 | 11:35 pm

I was surprised to find a pair of hairy arms reaching across my kitchen window this morning. It wasn't the hirsute nature of the arms that was surprising either, more the fact that my window is on the first floor. Fearing that King Kong had made his way over from the big apple to wreak havoc in Southern Europe, I fled to the relative safety of my bedroom. From my vantage point behind the radiator I could see that, far from being the sturdy limbs of a gargantuan primate, they were actually those of a middle-aged Catalan workman. He appeared to be fixing something to the railings outside the window. This something turned out, on closer inspection, to be a loudspeaker; of the kind that you might see stuck on the top of poles in a prison film, broadcasting classical music to the downtrodden inmates (and thus giving their spirits wings, allowing them to 'fly' away to freedom). As the speaker duly burst into song moments later, I soon began to feel that I too was being punished for a serious crime. A tinny screech of folk-style music, seemingly interpreted using a dying cat played in the style of the bagpipes, was being vomited out at an offensive volume, directly into my flat. Mercifully, the ordeal was cut short after a mere half an hour, to be replaced by persistent drilling from the next-door building.
The message is clear: the sausage fair is on its way, and it will not be stopped. Common courtesies, such as politely informing people before you start installing powerful audio equipment on the side of their house naturally go out of the window when there are meat products to be celebrated. Yes, here in the Alta Ribagorca (a mountainous North-Western part of Catalonia) the vestiges of an animal's carcass wrapped up in its own stomach are not only eaten, but it has its very own festival. Now, don't get me wrong. I love flesh in all its edible forms. And I am no stranger to this particular type of delicacy. Indeed I was proud to be part of last year's biggest worldwide haggis export operation. However, it is precisely this wealth of experience which leads me to think that maybe, just maybe the sausage is doing just fine on its own: it doesn't really need a fair in its honour to show us all how great it is. Especially this sausage. I mean, it's a poor imitation of the noble haggis, inferior in taste, um...smell (?), and...in all other ways besides. Eat it if you must, but please, don't announce its arrival by loudspeaker into the sanctity of my home.
There is no escape...the sausage fair is here.

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